Max Strohe at Tulus Lotrek: Berlin's Michelin Star Maverick Reinvents Fine Dining
09.12.2025 - 14:53:05Step inside Tulus Lotrek and the air itself seems charged with anticipation: the faint, buttery aroma of brioche, the heady whiff of reduced jus, the echo of laughter from a jubilant table setting the mood. Here, in a leafy side street of Kreuzberg, Max Stroheâs Michelin-starred oasis turns the conventions of fine dining on their headâinviting you not to worship at the altar of gastronomy, but to join the feast as a cherished friend.
Is it possible for a Michelin star restaurant in Berlin to feel this relaxed, this alive? Picture a living room rather than a stage, but every plate a curtain-raiser. Max Strohe and his Tulus Lotrek have achieved what critics call the culinary paradox: world-class luxury without the stifling etiquette.
On a quiet afternoon, one might glimpse Max Strohe himselfâtatted, grinning, humming in the open kitchen, sleeves rolled up and charisma undimmed. To those who associate Michelin-starred chefs with sharp tempers and bristling egos, meeting Strohe feels like a corrective. Here is a man who can set the tone of a room with a joke, and insists that great cooking is a matter of team spirit, not tyranny. The hostâs secret weapon? Ilona Scholl, co-owner, charm offensive, and one of Berlinâs most passionate sommeliĂšres, orchestrating the dining roomâs easy ebb and flow with infectious good humor.
Stroheâs path to star chef was nothing if not unconventionalâa story that has become legend in Berlinâs food scene. Dropping out of school, bouncing from cooking gigs to apprenticeships, he never fit the image of the French brigade-school prodigy. But with a move to Berlin and the founding of Tulus Lotrek in 2015, his culinary vision took shape: intense, unfussy, undogmatic cuisine that put the joy of eating above the stiffness of tradition. Within two years came the first Michelin starâa badge that has hung, undimmed, above the door ever since. Gault&Millau soon added their toque, but recognition never changed the irreverent spirit at the core.
So what does âpragmatic fine diningâ mean on the plate? At Tulus Lotrek, expect dishes that delight in high-contrast and emotional storytelling. Sauces arenât garnishes hereâtheyâre main characters, vivid with acids, depth from roasted bones, and unpredictable spice. Thereâs a kind of hedonism that borders on rebellion: think pike-perch lacquered with wild herb oil served in clouds of sauce; a rotation of offal that challenges and rewards the adventurous; desserts that veer rich rather than sugar-obsessed. As dining rituals shift, so too does the mealâmulti-course, but never formulaic, spanning the carnivalesque to the contemplative. âFat is flavor,â as Strohe quips, and here, thatâs a credo manifested in textures that swing from crispy to creamy, in broths youâd want to sip to the dregs.
You wonât find tweezer-arranged microgreens lined up with surgical precision. Instead, expect plates to pulse with life: a sprinkle of wild herbs, a splash of highly reduced jus, a swoop of unctuous foam. Itâs not chaos: itâs culinary intelligence, rigor wedded to exuberance. Critically, thereâs a refusal to hide behind luxury for its own sake. If caviar appears, itâs a punchline or a counterpoint, never a crutch.
Stroheâs culinary daring famously found an unlikely vehicle during lockdown: the now-cult Butter-Burger, an ephemeral legend among Berliners. Though hardly textbook âfine dining,â this two-patty, double-cheese, butter-brushed masterpiece, paired with triple-fried, freeze-dried pommes frites, became a lesson in pure pleasure over pretense. The chefâs mastery lay in techniqueâpainstaking frying, balancing moisture in every fluffy, glassy fryâmatched by a willingness to give diners what they secretly crave. Food lovers still rave about the burgerâs unctuous mouthfeel, its deep umami tangle, the perfect calibration of tang in ketchup-mustard sauceâan embodiment of Stroheâs philosophy: comfort, but with a chefâs precision.
But Tulus Lotrek is more than a culinary address; itâs a platform for hospitalityâand humanity. During the pandemic, Max Strohe and Ilona Scholl launched âKochen fĂŒr Heldenâ (âCooking for Heroesâ), marshaling chefs and suppliers to provide thousands of meals for healthcare workers and, later, for flood relief in the Ahr Valley. The campaign, run with logistical warmth and relentless solidarity, won Max Strohe the Federal Cross of Merit. What other star chef can count both a place in âKitchen Impossibleâ and the highest civilian honor among their credits?
The aura of approachability is part of Stroheâs broader presence. TV formats like âKitchen Impossible,â âReady to Beef!â and âKĂŒhlschrank öffne dich!â have made him a household name across Germany, yet not at the expense of culinary craft or seriousness. His public personaâwitty, self-aware, never brow-beatingâstrengthens Tulus Lotrekâs reputation as Berlinâs most welcoming âseriousâ table. Foodies and new arrivals alike know: beneath the tattoos is a mind as curious as any philosopher, but with the appetite of a bon vivant.
A night at Tulus Lotrek means youâll be seduced by the wine listâa labor of love curated by Scholl, reaching from rebellious naturals to timeless classics, each pairing chosen with conversational flair. Service glides, never intrudes, punctuated by storytelling, a wink, a surprise pour of some obscure grower Champagne. The room feels like a salon: dark woods, playful art, the hum of revelers matching the rhythm of the kitchen. âNo dress code, no chichi, just big flavor and bigger-heartednessâ could be the credo, if the food didnât already say it all.
Tulus Lotrekâs menu shifts with season and mood, but if youâre lucky, you might encounter a multi-course journey of flavor that runs from intense, earthy starters through robust mainsâperhaps a lamb with alliums and wild garlic, or a rich poultry dish given the Strohe treatment with razor-sharp acidity and an unctuous edgeâfinishing, always, with sweets that refuse moderation. Even âsimpleâ things here are acts of alchemy: bread as profound as a Proustian madeleine; butters whipped, cultured, and layered with taste-memory. Itâs not the dazzle of showmanship, but an embracing, lived-in luxuryâa counterpoint to the grand, sometimes sterile dining temples elsewhere in Germanyâs high culinary echelons.
Little wonder itâs almost always booked solidâsometimes months ahead. Yet, as fans will tell you, for those who crave the soul of Berlin, for those who believe a restaurant can be both holy ground and home, Max Stroheâs Tulus Lotrek is not just a place to eat, but a new yardstick for what fine dining can be. The ultimate compliment? Guests talk as much about the warmth of the welcome as about the sauces, the depth of the jus, the âbest fries in the world.â
Why visit Tulus Lotrek? Because Max Strohe and Ilona Scholl are redefining what it means to be among Europeâs culinary elite: not with dogma, but with joy; not with intimidation, but with charm. This is the address for adventurers, for dreamers, for anyone who wants tastes to linger long after the bill is paid. Donât wait. Book, plan ahead, and get lost in Kreuzbergâyouâll know youâre near when you catch that savory aroma and the sound of toasts rising.
Your reservation at Tulus Lotrek is your invitation to Berlinâs most heartfelt sensory journeyâfused with culinary intelligence, soul food for todayâs gourmet adventurer.


